Step Cuts: A Love Letter to Precision, Elegance, and Light

There’s something mesmerizing about a step-cut gemstone. The clean, crisp lines, the way the light glides across its surface in broad flashes instead of sharp sparkles, the depth created by those perfectly parallel facets—it all comes together in a way that feels intentional, architectural, and quietly luxurious.

I’ve always been drawn to geometric shapes, and step cuts fit right into that preference. Their concentric symmetry creates a hypnotic effect, pulling you in like a hall of mirrors, but in the most elegant way possible. The beauty of a step cut is in its restraint—it doesn’t rely on the intense brilliance of a round brilliant diamond or the playful asymmetry of a pear or marquise. Instead, it exudes sophistication, allowing clarity and color to take center stage.

What Are Step Cuts?

Step-cut gemstones, like emerald cuts, Asscher cuts, and baguettes, are defined by their parallel, rectangular facets that create a staircase-like effect. Unlike brilliant cuts, which maximize sparkle through tiny, light-scattering facets, step cuts favor large, open facets that produce a mirror-like reflection.

This cut is all about transparency. There’s nowhere to hide inclusions or uneven color distribution, which is why step cuts are often chosen for high-quality stones with excellent clarity. But when a gemstone has the right balance of color and precision, the result is nothing short of breathtaking.

The Appeal of Step Cuts in My Designs

While I dearly love other cuts—oval, marquise, pear—the step cut captures my imagination differently. Maybe it’s because of how precise the cut must be. Any slight variation in symmetry, any deviation in the angles, and the whole effect is thrown off. That precision speaks to me. It makes every stone feel like a perfectly considered, deliberate work of art.

When I design with step cuts, I almost always follow their lead. Their pared-down elegance means they don’t need a fussy setting or extra embellishment to shine. A simple bezel or partial bezel is usually my go-to, offering just enough structure to frame the stone while allowing the crisp edges to remain the focal point.

My Favorite Step-Cut Styles

It’s hard to pick just one favorite, but if I had to, the Asscher cut would be at the top of my list. This square step cut is like the emerald cut’s bold, graphic cousin. The Asscher has even more depth thanks to its concentric facets, which create a fascinating play of light that feels almost infinite. I would love to design a ring with a massive Asscher-cut sapphire someday (though they’re rare in anything other than diamonds!).

Baguettes and emerald cuts also hold a special place in my heart. Baguettes, with their slim, elongated profiles, are perfect as little building blocks in a design—whether as accents to a larger center stone or as part of a geometric arrangement. Meanwhile, a large emerald cut makes a singular statement with its dramatic proportions and understated shimmer.

Step Cuts in My Collection

I’ve had the pleasure of working with some truly stunning step-cut diamonds in my designs, and each piece tells its own story. Here are a few that stand out:

1.5ct Emerald Step Cut Parenthetical Diamond Ring

This ring embodies everything I love about step cuts: clean lines, an elegant East-West setting, and a beautifully exposed diamond. The Parenthetical setting is especially close to my heart because it allows more of the stone to be visible. From the side, you get this gorgeous window-like effect that truly highlights the geometry of the emerald cut. It’s refined but with just the right amount of intrigue.

Australian Sapphire 5 Stone Ring

There’s something timeless about a five-stone ring, and this one is no exception. At the center is a rich, velvety blue Australian sapphire—sourced from central Queensland, a region renowned for producing some of the most beautiful sapphires in the world. On either side, I set four lab-grown diamond baguettes that add just the right amount of sparkle while keeping the focus on the depth and color of the sapphire.

I love how the step-cut baguettes bring a clean, linear geometry to this piece. They frame the sapphire beautifully, almost like little beams of light pointing your eye straight to that stunning center stone. The result is a ring that feels both contemporary and antique—minimalist in its simplicity, but with a quiet, heirloom quality that’s meant to be passed down.

This one-of-a-kind ring is a perfect example of why I’m so drawn to step cuts: their ability to balance structure and softness, clarity and depth. It’s ready to be worn and loved for a lifetime.

1.5ct Emerald Step Cut Art Deco Diamond Ring

This one was an absolute joy to design. The Art Deco movement has long been a source of inspiration for me, and this ring captures that aesthetic perfectly. The setting features angular cutouts on the side, creating an almost architectural feel that complements the emerald-cut diamond beautifully. Add in the milgrain detail, and you have a piece that feels both vintage and timeless.

1.75ct Asscher Parenthetical Diamond Ring

This ring is special because of its shape. While emerald cuts are rectangular, the Asscher cut is square, giving it a distinctive depth and symmetry that’s truly hypnotic. I love how this particular Asscher is set kite-wise—rotated on its axis so that the corners point north, south, east, and west. The open basket setting allows the diamond to be admired from all angles, making it feel light and airy despite its bold presence.

Bringing Step Cuts Into the Modern Era

While step cuts are often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, I love finding ways to make them feel fresh and modern. The key is balance—letting the stone’s natural geometry take the lead while incorporating subtle, contemporary elements in the setting.

Minimalist bezel settings, east-west orientations, and unexpected band details (like my signature arrow band) are just a few ways I breathe new life into these classic cuts. I also love mixing step cuts with unexpected gemstone choices—like the watermelon tourmaline currently available in my collection. The way the step cut showcases the color shift from pink to green is truly mesmerizing.

Final Thoughts

Step cuts are not just another gemstone cut—they’re a statement. They celebrate clarity, structure, and restraint in a way that feels both vintage and modern, bold and understated. Whether you’re drawn to the classic elegance of an emerald cut, the hypnotic depth of an Asscher, or the sleek geometry of baguettes, there’s a step-cut stone for everyone.

If you love the quiet luxury of step cuts as much as I do, I’d love to help you find or design the perfect piece. Whether you’re dreaming of a bold solitaire, a geometric eternity band, or a completely custom creation, let’s make something stunning together. Schedule a consultation here.